Amalfi Coast Mario Style

In comparison to yesterday, today was everything we hoped for.

Early on in the cruise, we met Maxine and Andrew from West Auckland, at a presentation of all the off shore options presented by the ship. We chatted to them about our fantastic taxi experience on Katakolo, and they talked to us about booking a taxi to do the Amalfi Coast in one of our Napoli stops. We caught up with Andrew as we sailed from Santorini, and they were still keen, so we joined forces and were one of the first off the boat this morning to nab ourselves a deal.

Our prime intention was to be driven along the Amalfi Coast road, visiting Positano, Amalfi and Sorrento along the way. To do this off the boat on a bus tour, it would have cost us US$155 each. A private driver for 8 hours would have collectively set us back US$1399. For €300, we hired a late model van - cheaper than we had anticipated - and Mario.

Conjure up almost every stereotype you have about an Italian man and you may come up with Mario. The booking agent threw me a cheeky look as he introduced us to Mario as our driver, and made comment that we may need to find an 'off button' for him. Mario could talk. And when Mario spoke, he did so with great gesticulation. And intense volume. And passion. Some of the many things we found out about Mario in the 8 hours we were together:

Mario hated the Italian government, loved Naples and wished he could live in Sorrento. He had a wife and two daughters, BARRRRbara and CarMEEELLLLa. He was 57 and had had many jobs, including 8 years with the military police, which he had to leave for his 'mentality'. He could drive buses, minivans and taxis around the Coast road, and he had four eyes (not literally of course) so we were not to worry about his driving ability on this infamous stretch of road. Yes, Mario's stories were almost as interesting as the Amalfi Coast itself. 

We headed out from Napoli, skirting beneath Mt Vesuvius again, and past the road to Pompeii. We then snaked over the hills to the sound of Mario's friend singing Italian classics (Mario had to sing along, loudly and ever so out of tune) and down to the picturesque town of Ravello. There we took coffee and a bite of Internet before driving on to the Amalfi Coast Road.

Our literary friend Rick Steves colourfully describes the road as such:

"The trip from Sorrento to Salerno along the breathtaking Amalfi Coast is one of the world’s great scenic drives. It will leave your mouth open and your camera’s memory card full. You’ll gain respect for the Italian engineers who built the roads in the 1800s— and even more respect for anyone who drives it today. Cantilevered garages, hotels, and villas cling to the vertical terrain, and beautiful sandy coves tease from far below and out of reach. As you hyperventilate, notice how the Mediterranean, a sheer 500- foot drop below, really twinkles...." 
All of which I concur with. No wonder its considered one of the world's most dangerous roads!

Our journey from Ravello took us first to Amalfi Town, where we stopped for 40 minutes, then on past smaller villages to Positano, where we wove through the narrow and seemingly impassable streets without incident, and on to Sorrento. The views are stunning. We were not really there at the right time of day for the best pictures, but you will get the idea. Throughout Mario shared snippets of history, environment, engineering and, of course, his life and perspectives. For example, stupid Mama and-a stupid Papa make-a the stupid children, and they were of then the ones who could not drive the road properly.

Tight squeeze is an understatement!

Along the way Mario would try and stop in prime spots for a photo opportunity; this was not an easily ask, as space was so limited and lay bys often already taken. I told him I was full of luck, so he said if he touched my arm we would find a place to stop. Of course it worked in our favour. That stop was where we met Salvatore, a local who squeezed juice for a living, who liked a woman 'with form' and invited me to live with him high up on the hill if I had plenty of money. Italian men, huh? Full of charm and suggestion. It provided great amusement for all. Another spike of humour in our already entertaining day.

After our amazing experience on the Coast road, Mario then took us into Sorrento and to a restaurant of his choice. Of course this is one of those 'you rub my back I'll rub yours' type situations, and was probably the only low point of the day. Lunch was nice, but took too long and meant we only had the shortest time to look around the charming town of Sorrento, therefore it has to be another destination on my must-come-back list.

We were safely delivered back to port with a good 45 mins to spare before All Aboard. Mario received an appropriate fat tip for his good humour, entertainment and safe driving skills! I'm not sure what I will remember most vividly, his large personality or this superb slice of the Italian Coast.